
Pike Fishing question #2?
i recently posted a pike fishing question and got some good answers but i feel i wasn’t specific enough with the question.
I have never pike fished before but have targeted smaller species and am planning on going on a fishing trip on a large lake using lures , for two reasons 1, lures are recommended for this water 2, i don’t have knowledge of dead bait rigs.
i have researched pike fishing quite a lot but can only find good info on unhooking so i have bought the necessary tools (unhooking mat, forceps etc.) but i just want to have some advice on the basics
dead bait rigs
safely unhooking and returning
working lures
and any other info will be very much appreciated (oh and what are crimps?)
andy help would be very much apreciated =)
OK. First question. You have the implements, but do you know how to handle a pike? Here is how to do it. Lie it on its back and kneel over it straddling it it. If you are right handed, insert your left hand under its right gill plate (as viewed from your position) and slide your fingers forward as far as they will go. Let the ends of your fingers slip into the inside of its mouth, but keep them well away from the bright red gill rakers as these will slice your fingers to bits. Your fingers will not touch its teeth in this position as you are too far back in its throat. Lift the left hand up gently and this will force its mouth open. You can then insert your forceps or pliers to remove the hook. Lean over the fish as you do this. To then pick up the fish keep your fingers in the same place, stand up and lift. Pike tend to stay fairly still in this position, but they will sometimes gape their mouths and then shake their heads. This is when you are prone to dropping them, so use your right hand placed under the fish to keep the fish steady, You really do need to be firm and confident when handling these fish and it’s a good thing to keep them close to the ground when holding them. The other important thing to remember when unhooking is that your hooks are capable of doing you as much damage as the fish can. Be very wary of them when the fish starts thrashing around.
Dead bait rigs. There are two basic ways of Fishing With dead baits – with a float or with a leger. Here is a link to a page showing you some simple rigs. They really are simple. I personally prefer legering with a paternoster rig. http://www.pacgb.co.uk/tips/simplerigs.html The other thing to bear in mind is that when legering you need a set up that will present as little resistance to a taking fish as possible.
Returning a fish. I told you above how to pick a pike up. When returning it the only real tip you need is to support it while it recovers. Pike often go belly up if they have been out of the water for a few minutes, but if you support them and swoosh them backwards and forwards to get water moving through their gills they usually recover very well. Don’t let go until they tell you they are ready. There is no mistaking the message!
Working lures. There are many types of lures. These include spoons and Tobys. I probably catch more on Tobys than anything else. I fish on big rivers and they are relatively easy to cast long distances. There are shads – little rubber imitation fish, there are plugs and Rapala lures that imitate real fish, there are jerkbaits that require a very heavy rod. When buying a lure, look at the vanes on the front if it has them. A big vane will cause it to dive deep as it is retrieved, a small one will allow it to stay near the surface. And you can also fly fish for pike, which is huge fun. Some lures impart their own fishy swimming action. Rapala lures are good at this and Tobys move with an undulating motion. Jerkbaits have no natural movement of their own and have to be worked by the angler as they are retrieved. The best thing when trying out a new lure is to cast it once or twice and see what it does as you retrieve it. In hot weather fast moving lures often work very well, in colder weather it is often better to use a slower moving lure.
As to where to cast a lure, pike are hunters and rely heavily on camouflage.. They often lurk in or near the bank and along parallel to a bed of reeds is a classic place to chuck your lure.
And finally, crimps are little metal tubes used when making up your own rigs with trace wire. Line is looped through them and they are then crushed with crimping pliers to keep the loop secure. Making up your own traces and snap tackle is an art worth learning. It saves you a fortune.
WWC- fishing help: forceps
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SE Forceps, Curved 8 and Straight 8 $4.49 2 8 in. Hemostats, Stainless Steel. 1 Straight and 1 Curved. Each has three tension/locking positions. Clamps tight and holds. Great size for fishing, sewing, doll stuffing, most any hobby needs…. |
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Hemostat w/ Scissor (Olsen Hegar) 6 1/2 $7.75 This stainless steel hemostat locks in place and has a built in scissor located in back of the jaw…. |
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Olsen Hagar Needle Nose with Cutter 5 Fishing Forceps $2.99 Olsen Hagar Needle Nose with Cutter 5″… |
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ECO-Dr. Slick Scissor Clamp Stainless Steel Satin Finish 5 1/2 & Retractable Pin-on Reel $14.00 ECO combination pin on retractable reel with stainless steel & satin finish 5 1/2″ scissor clamp. The tip of the jaws of the clamp are smooth with the balance striated, (see insert photo) The cutting blade has no serrations. A Dr. Slick instrument for anglers…. |
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The Fisherman’s Guide to Coarse Fishing … |
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Revere Fisherman’s Pak Premium First Aid Kit $44.78 Revere Fisherman’s Pak Premium First Aid Kit… keep weekend fishing trips safe! A compact briefcase-style Kit in a hard plastic case. Has secure top-latch closure for quick access when time is of the essence. Has everything you need to dress wounds, ease symptoms and keep injuries from becoming major issues. When you’re on the boat, it’s best to have the necessary tools, just in case. Case is 10 … |
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3M Scientific Anglers Vest Pack Assortment with Retractor, Nipper, Forceps, and Leader Straightener $11.99 All the basic fly fishing tools you need in one convenient pack from Scientific Anglers Contents: RetractorÊ – Stretches to 15Ó (38cm)Ê – Pin-back attachment NipperÊ – Multi-purpose tool handles many tasksÊ – Hardened steel construction for lasting valueÊ – EyeOpener feature quickly clears hook eyesÊ – Hardened edge stays sharper for reliable cutting ForcepsÊ – Locks securely in three pos… |
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Rapala Combo Pack 6 1/2 Pliers / 5 1/2 Forceps / 25 lb.Scale / Clipper/ Sheath $22.95 Rapala Combo Pack gives you convenient tools to make fishing easier. Essential fishing tools together at last! This Combo Pack from Rapala contains some of the most handy and requested fishing tools. No tackle box should be considered complete without this Combo Pack. Now you can buy these essentials at big savings! Look at this: 6 1/2″ fisherman’s pliers; 5 1/2″ forceps; 25-lb. scale and Rapala c… |
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Root Forceps $59.99 Root Forceps – Wall Decal |
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Bicuspid Forceps $59.99 Bicuspid Forceps – Wall Decal |
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Excising Forceps $59.99 Excising Forceps – Wall Decal |
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Berger Biopsy Forceps $612.33 Berger Biopsy Forceps |
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Eppendorf Biopsy Forceps $731 Eppendorf Biopsy Forceps |
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Bionix Replacement Forceps, 10/bx $79.03 Bionix Replacement Forceps for use with foreign body removal forceps |
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Saint Apollonia with Tooth in Forceps $59.99 Saint Apollonia with Tooth in Forceps – Wall Decal |
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Miltex Kelly Forceps, Curved, 5.5 $42.25 Miltex Kelly Forceps, Curved, 5.5″ |
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Medline Forceps, Plastic, 4.5, 400/cs $108.5 Medline Forceps, Plastic, 4.5″, 400/cs |
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Mader Kelly Forceps, Curved, 5.5 $38.64 Mader Kelly Forceps, Curved, 5.5″ |
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J&J Alligator Forceps, Economy, 5.5 $31.52 J&J Alligator Forceps, Economy, 5.5″ |
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Miltex Simpson Obstetrical Forceps, 12 $751.99 Miltex Simpson Obstetrical Forceps, 12″ |
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Miltex Gruenwald Forceps Bayonet, 8 $54.59 Miltex Gruenwald Forceps Bayonet, 8″ |
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Miltex Rankin Forceps, Straight, 6.25 $52.74 Miltex Rankin Forceps, Straight, 6.25″ |
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Grafco Stainless Steel Tissue Forceps, Serrated, 4 1/2 $2.63 Stainless steel tissue forceps |